Lund Is Soul Candy

By Roy L Hales

The village of Lund is about 20 miles from my home on Cortes Island. There are vantage points on Cortes, from which you can actually see Savary Island. Though only a short distance across the waters, it takes a day and three ferry trips to drive there. The experience is delightful. Lund is soul candy.

Lund’s Attractions

My wife Angela looking through a display at Nancy’s Bakery in Lund – Roy L Hales photo

Do you enjoy freshly baked homemade goodies? A full fisherman’s breakfast? Or some of the best fish and chips in British Columbia?

Is your heart touched by the sight of idyllic fishing villages?  Warm sandy beaches? Or remains from the not too distant past?

You can find it all in Lund or in the close vicinity.

The Tla’amin

Looking towards the entrance  of Okeover Arm – Roy L Hales photo

Tow-wha-nech, one of the Tla’amin’s seven ancestral village sites, is only minutes away at the head of Okeover Inlet.1

A 4,000-year-old shell midden attests to the tribe’s continued presence in this area.2 This is still an important shellfish harvesting area.

Visitors can purchase a Tidal Waters Sport Fishing License to gather their own oysters or dig clams on the beach.

Sea grass on the beach in front of the ancient shell midden at Okeover Arm Provincial Park – Roy L Hales photo

The Tla’amin venture into the tourist sector began in 2000. They purchased a majority share in the historic Lund Hotel.3

Looking at the boats as we approach the Boardwalk restaurant (left), where we ate one pleasantly overcast afternoon – Roy L Hales photo

Historic Lund

The current Lund Hotel was  our base for two nights. I would definitely go back – Roy L Hales

The original establishment dates back to the founding of Lund. A Swedish immigrant named Charles Thulin built a dock and small store to supply passing boaters.  His brother Fred arrived in time to help build a hotel to meet the growing need for accommodations.

Charles moved on to Campbell River,  where some of his descendants can be found today.

Fred and his wife, Vira, remained behind.

Some believe their ghosts still linger around the establishment. Employees reported hearing footsteps, walking or running, up and down the stairs. Fred has been spotted close to where his picture hangs in the lobby. Vira is said to sometimes dance in the saloon after hours.

Lund is now a picturesque seaside village of 300. The population swells to many times that number during the tourist season.

The old waterwheel at Lund – Roy L Hales photo

The Fishing Village

Prawn fishing boats at Lund on May 7, 2017 – Roy L Hales photo

This is another coastal settlement that could once be described as a fishing village. Overzealous Government regulations largely eradicated small scale operations.

My wife and I  arrived shortly before the opening of the 2017 prawn season. There were a number of boats tied up at the wharf. None of them were based in Lund. The last local prawn fisherman currently lives in Powell River. He found full time employment, but for the next five weeks will catch prawns.

Lunds Water Taxi, the principal means of reaching Savary Island – Roy L Hales photo

Savary Island

We saw many stand-up and rooftop solar panels at Savary. One of the locals told us the principal source of electricity was generators and batteries.  – Roy L Hales photo

Savary Island is only a 12 minute hop from Lund by water taxi.

This is an offgrid community of less than a hundred inhabitants during the winter months.

There are no public washrooms, garbage facilities or campsites. Visitors are asked to bring their own drinking water.

According to a provincial government report, the island’s “sand cliffs are eroding at a rate of 25-45 centimetres a year.”

This is very visible where the trees are literally toppling onto the beach below.

Trees toppling over the eroding sand cliffs – Roy L Hales photo
Trees tumbling onto Savary Island’s Northern beach – Roy L Hales

Yet there are about 1,490  privately owned lots, most of which are only 50 feet wide.

So what draws people here?

Houses packed close to Savary Island’s beach (note the solar panels)- Roy L Hales photo

White sandy beaches and some of  the warmest ocean waters north of Mexico.

The beach on Savary Island’s South side – Roy L Hales photo
Walking along the northern beach. (l to r) Hernando Island, (faintly) Cortes Island and the Twin Islands are in the distance – Roy L Hales photo

Top Photo Credit: Looking out towards the wharf at Lund. You can see Savary Island to the left and the distant mountains on Vancouver Island – Roy L Hales photo

Footnotes

  1. Tla’amin Land and Water Use Plan,  August 2005, Page 4
  2. plaque at Okeover Arm Provincial Park
  3.  Tla’amin Land and Water Use Plan, p 50

One thought on “Lund Is Soul Candy”

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *